All Cook Ought to Learn Here’: Modest Turkish Dining Spot Secures Fourth on List of London’s Top Restaurants.

When curating a roll of London’s finest eateries, one might foresee well-known high-end names. Yet, situated prominently among these gastronomic heavyweights is a modest salonu found in a outlying part of north London.

An Unexpected Recognition

The small Turkish eatery, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the fourth finest restaurant in the capital by a prominent culinary publication. The accolade has left the owners totally surprised.

“I am completely astonished,” states the proprietor, referring to his parents’ hard graft that culminated in their humble shop securing such a lofty ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

The small shop, which started as a basic cafe before its change into a sought-after spot, has kept much of its original feel. It accommodates just over 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking show, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky spot,” notes the owner.

A Star Offering: Tantuni

However, it is all down to the cuisine, and this eatery definitely excels. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a succulent consistency.

It is then added into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. Once the meaty mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to take in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is rolled neatly inside.

It is often enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a strong burst of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A prominent food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is coated in lighter syrup than usual, resulting in it a richer, toastier and less sickly taste.

Surpassing the Stars

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant full for under £25, equivalent experiences at top-tier establishments can cost significantly more than that amount.

The Creed of Heart

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I don’t believe in that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The view is echoed by the list’s curator, who stated that if he was in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London visit this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the traps of excess, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

The Path of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not train at elite restaurants. “I feel very proud of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum was very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a social life but her friends would support her to support her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these roles forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

An Accomplishment for the People

This restaurant’s accolade is bound to have meaning outside its own premises. “I think numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the greater meaning of this culinary triumph.